With today’s ever changing fabrics, prices and styles, it begs the question what is more important to keep up with? Factor in some clever marketing and it’s even harder to understand value. But a question you will come across in nearly every aspect of your life is when to value quality over quantity.

Too often we dismiss some of the best lessons we learned early on as cliché, but one that certainly holds true 100% of the time (barring extra-ordinary circumstance) is: youget what you pay for. When building a wardrobe this is important to factor in. The most important question to ask when debating price is -am I truly saving? If you’re basing a purchase based solely on price, ask yourself –what am I really trying to accomplish? It may be a difficult choice to choose the cost of 1 quality item over spending the same amount and getting 3 inferior ones, but here’s some things to consider.

Let’s take a look at this formulas applied to dress shirts. The benefits of buying quality affects the look, quality and feel. Cotton and natural fibers will affect the breathability and longevity of your garment. The higher grade and longer staples of cotton used, the stronger the luster and look of the fabric; and the more resilient it is to washings. Synthetic fabrics like polyester will always be cheaper to produce. Their only real goal is to lower manufacturing costs while mimicking natural fibers through treating these man made materials chemically. Remember, plastic bags are made in the same way? Ever notice your “soft shirt” that’s mostly acrylic and wonder how your girlfriend’s fake nails can be made of the same thing? Its science folks, especially if you’re concerned with buying organic food, you should expect the same natural compositions in your clothing. Your body may absorb whatever you put on it, so you may want to rethink that “smart choice” of boots that look great for a phenomenal price, yet turns your socks green.

The process of production is extremely important especially if the fabric is chemically treated for performance. Cheap wrinkle free shirts will often have harmful chemicals baked or sprayed on the shirts after they have been manufactured in order to perform as advertised. They often do not anyway, as these treatments fade away with a couple of washings. A quality garment will be made with the fibers in the fabric having been already pre-treated permanently through a much safer process.

That is also ensured if you factor in the origin of production. Most clothing isn’t made overseas just for the lower cost of manufacturing, but for the lack of laws and regulations on the chemical treatment of fabrics and materials. The cheaper your garment, the more likely it is from a country that turns the other way when it comes to the environment or welfare of its workers, which translates to the quality of your garments. Take away the moral arguments, simply put a child laborer will never produce the level of quality a trained tailor can do. But as you can imagine the trained tailor does take more to please. A big factor to remember when garments are coming from Italy or Canada vs. Bangladesh or Pakistan.

You may be better served slowing down on those fast fashion pieces, and since you’ll be replacing them anyway, choose quality pieces when building your wardrobe. A clothing coach is the perfect match to show you how to expand and compliment your wardrobe. There is no relationship more valuable than helping you understand the value of what you are regularly buying. Creating new whole meaningful looks by just adding a new piece in addition to your long lasting purchases. As your wardrobe goals then change to complement and enhance vs. replace and throw out.

Grooming may not be directly related to colors, fit or pattern but as part of upgrading your look or personal style, it can say more about you than anything else. You can certainly focus on the overarching details, copy any magazine or movie characters look, but too often we men especially may forget the most important detail of all, personal hygiene and grooming. While other aspects are certainly important to factor in, I’d reserve this tip as the most important of all.

Beard/hair Grooming

One of the most important aspects of men’s grooming is a haircut complimentary to your style. Develop a routine maintenance as you do your precious car and equally important pay attention to your facial hair. It’s one of those things that separates the men from the boys. Whether you’re rocking a full Gandalf or just a little stubble, or none at all -it’s crucial that you care for your face properly. Your facial hair is one of the first things people see when they assess the totality of your look. If your beard is scraggly and dry, it distracts from the overall effectiveness of your ensemble. If you’re keen on maintaining stubble, make sure you trim every other day or so to avoid patchy growth. If you sport a fully-grown beard, moisturize daily with beard oil and deep clean with a specially formulated beard shampoo every couple of days. As skin types vary you need to find a post shave balm that’s best for you. But stay away from heavily scented and cheap additive filled shaving creams and after shaves. Better to use Vaseline or Shea butter based creams and keep it simple. Classy and Masculine.

Additional Grooming

While your facial hair is front and center, it’s not the only grooming category that can potentially derail a strong look. Need I say shower daily? Although I should also mention you can’t maintain a good look with bad breath. So let’s skip to a great cologne that can add an emotional element to your look that even the best accessories can’t. If you’re still wearing cheaper drugstore brands, it’s time to upgrade. Luxury, oil-based scents might cost you a little more, but the scents are often more refined and masculine, and their strength lasts twice as long with minimal application. Meaning you need less of it and get a stronger impact. Again this isn’t a one size fits all, find the scent that most compliments you. A primary reason to enlist the services of a seasoned Clothing Coach to help guide you. And for the men who’ve discovered grooming your hands and feet is not reserved for women, -it is truly a matter of cleanliness, -you are truly a step ahead. Besides, women time after time note among the 2 sexiest things they find about men, you can imagine it isn’t dirty nails, but groomed hands are certainly one so I’ll reserve the second one for another blog.

Looking your best isn’t just about spending thousands of dollars on high-end clothing. It’s about the details. Excellent grooming makes you an excellent candidate for anything, it literally never hurts. Instead of navigating these flourishes on your own, work together with your clothing coach to ensure you hit the right notes each and every time. Understand how perspective is a weapon –that cuts both ways.

When most men decide to upgrade their looks, they focus on the overarching details. What suit color works best for their skin tone? Which patterns are trendy? Price? Which accessories help make the outfit more cohesive? While these aspects are certainly important, fit is a key area that most men not only overlook, -but wouldn’t even know what to look for. Fit may not be directly related to color or pattern, but this is a main component in expressing your personal style. The right fit to your body type can say more about you than any fabric or hue.

Suiting Fit-

Concerning formal dressing, fit is the most important part of a great suit. It can make the difference between looking like a million bucks and looking like you rolled out of bed. No matter how expensive a suit is, it means nothing without the proper fit. Your suit jacket should lightly hug your torso but not squeeze it. Your shoulder seam should fall in line with your natural shoulder structure. Your sleeve should hit right at the wrist bone so you can allow a half-inch of shirt cuff to peek out. Your trousers should have a slight break to find the balance between traditional and modern tailoring. It may sound like a lot to consider, but it’s these fine details that truly make a suit stand out and why you truly may need a clothing coach.

Fit by Body Type-

Fit still matters when you’re not suiting up. Just like your suit, the right fit can make you look great even when you’re off duty. The key to perfecting casual style is understanding how your body type factors in. For heavyset guys, the objective is to wear garments that slim your build. Classic or relaxed fits, while not the most modern, tend to complement your stature the best. Athletic guys should lean on straight fits more often. Though they tend to be lean, slimmer cuts don’t account for muscle mass unless they’ve been specifically tailored to your body. Skinny guys can easily get away with slim or skinny fits. Anything bigger and they’ll overemphasize how skinny they are.

More important than trends or being fashionable, is knowing what looks good on you. Looking your best isn’t just about spending thousands of dollars on high-end clothing. It’s about the details. The perfect fit on any suit can make you look like an A-list star regardless of how much you’ve spent.

Instead of navigating these flourishes on your own, work together with your clothing coach to ensure you hit the right notes each and every time. Observe and learn, you’ll know when you’re ready to navigate the waters on your own.

There’s a huge debate raging right now about genetically modified organisms. Are they safe for consumption? Are they dangerous? Do they help the environment or hurt it? There doesn’t seem to be general consensus, though many companies have taken an anti-GMO stance when it comes to their food. One area where genetically modified advancements are pushing ahead full steam is fashion. Forget your food. The t-shirt on your back might be made of genetically modified cotton.

Genetically modified cotton? That’s right. Genetically modified cotton—let’s call it GMC—is making a big splash in fashion. In Australia, GMC has been around for two decades. The modification involves adding a bacterium to cotton crops to kill harmful insects. Thanks to this revolutionary breakthrough, Australian farmers have been able to reduce the amount of pesticide used to keep their crops growing healthily—a big environmental plus.

In India, one of the world’s biggest cotton producers, GMC is facing resistance. When other pests began to emerge in response to the bacteria used in GMC, its cotton crops and yields began to suffer. On the other hand, African farmers have gladly adopted GMC. However, there’s a growing dissonance there with critics claiming GMC is of lower quality than unmodified cotton.

The U.S. has jumped aboard the GMC train, but it has caused a cold war between farmers and insecticide manufacturers. Some insects are even developing resistance to the GMC bacteria here at home.

Though not as intense as the discussion in food, the debate over GMC continues not only due to the insecticide war but the impact on our clothing, how it affects you when worn and the people who make it.

Whereas certain insects are developing immunity to the bacteria used in GMC, many of the farmers are developing allergies because of it. They may not be exposed to unsafe factory conditions like the manufacturers, but the allergies caused by GMC can lead to risky health problems. If GMC is affecting the farmers, who’s to say it can’t, -or isn’t already having an affect us?

It’s difficult to know how much GMC is making its way into our clothes. But with roughly 75% of U.S. cotton being grown as GMC, it’s safe to say that we’re all wearing a little bit. The data gets fuzzy on where this cotton ends up in the production process. It’s also fuzzy around the long-term health effects.

In recent years, genetically modified silk and lace have also surfaced. It seems that almost everything we wear will begin to be modified in some way. But what does this mean?

It’s hard to summarize. There simply isn’t enough information on GMC or any other genetically modified fabric to know about the risks. With food, GMOs are clearly marked and identified. With GMC, there’s really no way to tell unless a brand claims it’s producing 100% natural cotton.

Will it affect you if you don’t pay attention? Probably not. But as science plays a greater role in everything we wear, it should be worth looking into.

Something bad has been trending in retail. On December 14 2016, U.S. News and World Report shared that retail sales were only up .1% over the previous year during November. November, which is home to Black Friday sales, is arguably the most important month on the retail calendar. It’s the kickoff of the gifting season and should be an easy win for department stores, but it only got worse. They’re struggling to make the grade as several large chains and power house brands have announced hundreds of store closures -and it’s only the beginning.

There is of course the obvious shift to e-commerce as some retailers undercut their own stores by providing deeper discounts online and incentivizing the process through free shipping and free returns(including to their brick and mortar locations). Those brands unable to change with the times are rapidly losing customers to online stores where spending continues to increase each month. While shopping online can be more convenient, did you know that at least 30% of all items bought online are returned or exchanged vs only 8.9% at a traditional Brick & mortar store? There’s nothing like trying on clothing before you make a purchase. So, why are so many shoppers turning away from department stores? The real answer is easy- low wages and poor training have led to declining service. This truly provides no real value in traveling to a physical location.

When you decide to spend your hard-earned dollars at a department store, you’re expecting great service. You want an attentive, knowledgeable salesperson guiding you until you’ve found the perfect item. The salesperson should be your trusted editor, fashion confidant and consummate professional. However, all too often, you’re thrilled if you can find any help at all and you know it’s an exception when someone provides you with a quality experience. Department store salespeople are typically poorly trained, apathetic employees who are simply collecting a paycheck on their way to class or preparing for their ‘dream job.’ Whether they help you or not is of no concern to them -it’s no different than ‘fast food.’ It’s frustrating to deal with, but we’ve been headed this way for quite some time.

Perhaps the biggest culprit behind the drop in service is not only stagnant wages but declining pay. Retail employees often make minimum wage and see minuscule increases from year to year -if any at all. Industry professionals are long gone as incentives and penchants shrank or disappeared with company re-alignments and consolidations. Meanwhile, their jobs became more demanding as they are spread out to do more yet this caused many to know less. As many retailers have closed stores, filed for bankruptcy and cut costs to save their brands, it’s usually the employees who suffer most.

Retail employees are often required to cover multiple positions for several hours at a time. And even worse, they work extended shifts that go far beyond closing time. The rare employee who steps up and gives maximum effort is rarely adequately rewarded or recognized. This is a recipe for disaster. Your favorite department stores are under-staffing their shopping floors with underpaid, overworked and/or inexperienced employees who could care less about helping you. It’s not because they’re bad workers; they’re just exhausted, undervalued and often lack professional direction and guidance.

Mass retailers like Macy’s don’t have great training programs in place. These companies invest a lot of time in teaching new employees about company policies and procedures, but little time is reserved for fashion and product knowledge. No real clothiers or experts are produced as they are not trained for that, but rather how to implement company goals and policies. What little fashion knowledge they do receive typically occurs in the first weeks of employment. Learning about the product isn’t an ongoing process. Retail employees are left to their own devices to learn the details about the incoming clothing -even as trends, clothing and fabrics are rapidly changing.

‘Service’ then becomes just a word, another policy vs. a commitment. It’s an environment where more work is accomplished through force rather than passion. When they attempt to sell it to you, they don’t know what they’re talking about and are under skilled at dressing themselves let alone you to your ultimate satisfaction.

In the current retail climate, department stores have relied on the low cost of synthetic fabrics and overseas mass production as they become more focused on moving units than outfitting customers. To keep profit margins at an acceptable level, they’re running tons of promotions and cutting costs to make it up in volume. The ultimate goal is to rid their stockrooms of as much product as possible. Unfortunately, with their eyes on stocks and shareholders, the customer experience takes a backseat despite being often referenced as the number one priority.

This is where a clothing coach can come to the rescue. Instead of navigating underwhelming shopping experiences at local department stores, a clothing coach can help you make the big decisions and ensure you receive the utmost service as well as the best looks possible. Understand the value in the things you buy again! Just because department store service is on the decline, that shouldn’t mean the same for your wardrobe.

When you think back to your days as a high school or college athlete, your favorite coaches probably come to mind with ease.  You recall how they pushed you to be the best player you could be.  They inspired and armed you with knowledge and strategy so you could beat your rivals.  They pushed you in practice so you could excel in the game.  They helped you achieve success at all costs.

What makes a great coach?  According to Livestrong.com, a great sports coach has knowledge of their respective sport, exhibits patience while their athletes learn, leads by example and communicates clearly and effectively.  For the coaches that had the biggest impact on your life, it’s likely they possessed these qualities.

Now, imagine that the big game is your life.  Instead of the field, the court or the track, the world beyond your front door is your daily practice field.  And a big meeting, interview or wedding is your ultimate opportunity to show off what you’ve learned.  Just because you’ve moved beyond your youthful days in sports doesn’t mean you don’t need a coach.  A clothing coach can bring that same level of expertise to your life but for your confidence and personal style (the main component of the all-feared “1^st Impression”).

A clothing coach has extensive knowledge about fashion.  Regardless of your level of style proficiency, your coach can help you achieve maximum results.  Whether you’re a clueless novice or a guy with above average experience, the right clothing coach can adapt their approach to take your style to new heights.  Your clothing coach will be versed in everything from clothing fits and fabrics to trends and special occasion dress codes.

A good coach will be patient with you as you take in your new skill set.  Your coach knows that dressing well requires a lot of new information.  It can be overwhelming at first, but your coach’s job is to in-still this knowledge in you –in a way that works best for you. Your coach will work with you to cultivate great style at a speed that complements your needs.

Most importantly, a true coach leads by example.  Your clothing coach is someone whose style you’ll admire and want to emulate. A coach that practices what they preach, instantly earns your trust by displaying a superior sense of style.  Just like a great personal trainer inspires great results when he’s in excellent shape, a well-dressed Clothing coach will motivate you to look your absolute best!

Finally, your clothing coach will be a great listener in order to then communicate effectively and to make sure you’re armed with the necessary knowledge to go forward with confidence.  With sports, you probably remember the form or technique you learned from your coach.  It’s life-long information that has stayed with you over time.  Your clothing coach won’t be any different.  Your Clothing Coach will teach you skills and techniques to dress well every day.  Feel free to use your coach’s services as long as you need or move forward in life with the information you’ve obtained it’s a win-win.

In the game of life, a clothing coach is the ultimate ally who’s there to help pull off a big win in every scenario, -until you reach your own hall of fame.

In the age of Google, bloggers and extreme fashion experimentation, there’s an abundance of information out there about men’s style. It can be difficult -intimidating even, to navigate the fashion landscape and pull together a great and event appropriate look. Regardless of how you choose to get your facts, one thing remains clear: every guy needs a solid understanding of the foundations to dressing well. You could be an avid reader of GQ, but if you don’t have the basic tools required to buy the right clothes, your knowledge base won’t matter.  Before you can set new style goals or attempt a risky move from one of your idols, make sure you aren’t a major offender of these common men’s fashion mistakes:

‘Your Clothes Are Too Tight’

The most popular silhouette in men’s fashion is skinny, and this makes a lot of sense –for the right person. Tailored and slim-cut clothing help create sleek, clean, and trendy looks. But not every item in your wardrobe should be skintight. Some guys think loose clothes can help mask weight gain around the torso. However, that couldn’t be further from the truth. Tight clothes may also accentuate the very weaknesses you’re hoping to hide, making it critical to understand your fit. Slim-cut suits and shirts are great for a lot guys that may not fall under the category of ‘skinny’. Skinny jeans work if you’re not too athletic. Tight t-shirts only look good on athletes. Plain fronts slacks have been the trend, but pleats can be necessary and the better choice for you.  Pick and choose your battles here.

‘The Button Crisis’

Whether it’s a blazer or a woven shirt, most guys seem to be confused about how many buttons to fasten and how many to leave open. With two- and three-button blazers and dress vests, you should leave the bottom button undone. More than a simple style move, this allows you to move freely in your suit, sit comfortably and keeps your jacket from restricting your movement. Wearing a shirt with no tie? Well have you heard of magnetic collar stays? Quite the game changer, either way never leave more than two buttons open, anything more and you’ll be exposing your chest. That move might work at a sleazy nightclub but in more formal settings, it’s a major faux pas.

‘Your Pants Are Too Long’

Suiting trousers are a complex area of men’s clothing. It’s rare that you’ll find the perfect pair off the rack. Achieving your exact fit is something that can only be done with the help of a tailor or clothing expert. Still, there are tons of men walking around in unaltered, store-bought suits, completely unaware of their baggy trousers. Ideally, your suit pants should have a clean “break”. The break is where your pant leg opening meets your shoe. Most guys have exaggerated breaks in which the pant fabric spills over their shoe laces and the same goes for their jeans. Your pant should rest just atop your shoe. Folding them up and calling it a cuff is not an answer, nor is walking around with frayed bottoms. This is not even factoring in the rise, seat and crotch which most guys don’t even realize the impact on not only their look but even more so, -their comfort. This is something a good tailor or clothier will understand; unfortunately, you won’t get this right on your own.

Ultra-Skinny Ties

The skinny tie is one of those risky modern style moves reserved for guys with great style. Not to say that you don’t have great style, but it’s likely you don’t understand the mechanics behind wearing a skinny tie. Skinny ties work best in knit fabrics and casual looks. Think casual Friday or an outdoor Spring wedding. If you want to wear a silk skinny tie with a more elegant suit, pay close attention to your lapel width. Your lapel width should never be larger than your tie width. For most suiting, this means skinny ties won’t work well. Know when and where to use this style move to your advantage.

Athleisure vs. Gym Clothes

Athleisure is a buzzword for casual looks that are heavily rooted in athletic wear. When it’s done correctly, the looks are so smart that a pair of joggers end up looking like trousers. However, too many guys are using athleisure as an excuse to wear their gym clothes in public. The key to making athleisure work for you is incorporating one or two athletic pieces into your everyday wardrobe. Pairing a V-neck sweater and casual woven shirt with tailored sweatpants can make for a dapper yet comfortable look. If you’re heading to an event in a compression shirt, joggers and sneakers, you’re on the wrong page. Save that look for the gym.

Outdated Denim Cuts

In the most recent fashion weeks around the globe, the most fashion-forward attendees were spotted in relaxed denim. Once the calling card of lazy dads in middle America, relaxed denim is finding a second wind as a luxury fashion must-have. However, this doesn’t mean it’s time to usher in every outdated denim cut. There are brands out there that are still selling bootcut jeans and classic fits. Just because they’re being sold doesn’t mean they should be purchased. You should be wearing skinny, slim or straight jeans; relaxed if you’re adventurous. But bootcut? Don’t even think about it.

If you don’t have a clothing coach in your life, it truly is tough to avoid these common pitfalls and achieve your best style. This knowledge is far from common place so why stress yourself over dressing the right way without an expert who can seamlessly guide you through the process? Take notes! Then dressing and shopping on your own will never be stressful again.